Editor’s note: “JT potency” (Jenichen /Tichavsky) is a centesimal dilution followed by 500 succussions or five hundred continuous turns with a wooden stick to the right and 500 turns to the left (if handling larger volumes). The JT potency frequently has a better reaction in plants and it is very important in preparation of live bionosodes.
Hello Dr. Tichavsky,
I’m writing to ask where I can purchase a few remedies that you outlined in a reply to a question regarding the overgrowth of the invasive Japanese Knotwood. I am on the environmental commission in my small beach town of Bradley Beach NJ, USA and in our maritime forest, we have an abundance of Japanese Knotwood.
Hoping you can provide a website where I can purchase these in a 6x as you wrote in a reply to a question. The remedies were:
Acacia farnesiana , Aloe vera, Amaranthus
You wrote that there a specific time of the seasons to use these. Is early spring best?
Thank you,
Carol Conway
Dr. Radko Tichavsky:
Dear Carol,
Most of the remedies we use in holohomeopathy we make ourselves; it is actually easy to do so. In the case of Acacia farnesiana, you can use the bark. Cut a little young bark from the tree, put it in a small jar (100 ml for example), and add 30% alcohol. Leave it for approximately one week in a dark place, and that way you will obtain the mother tincture. From there you must determine how much dynamized remedy you are going to need.
Let’s suppose to prepare 6 CH. So, you take 1 ml of the MT (Mother tincture) and add 99 ml of alcohol to it and perform 100 vigorous succussions: you hold the bottle in one hand and strike it 100 times against your other hand. In this way, you will obtain the 1 CH potency (don’t forget to label the bottle, for example, “Acacia farnesiana 1 CH”).
Then you repeat the procedure: you take 1 ml of the 1 CH potency, place it in a new small bottle together with 99 ml of alcohol, and perform 100 succussions, obtaining the 2 CH potency. The procedure is similar for making the 3 CH and 4 CH potencies. Now, you place 10 ml of the 4 CH potency into a liter of water and perform 100 succussions, obtaining the 5 CH potency.
Finally, you place one liter of the 5 CH potency into 99 liters of water and, using a wooden stick, perform 100 vigorous turns to the right and 100 turns to the left, and thus you will obtain 100 liters of 6 CH potency which you can use for 24 hours.
In the next application, you will begin the same process, but starting from 1 ml of the 4 CH potency. For Aloe vera, use the pulp of the leaf, and for Amaranthus, use young leaves and stems. Remedies made in alcohol will remain viable for years; only preparations made in water last 24 hours.
Holohomeopathy is fascinating not only because you can practice the dynamization process and practically understand the bases of homeopathy, but also because the interaction of your biofield when holding the bottles in your hand and performing movements with it encodes your remedy with the message of your own body.
Store the homeopathic preparations in a dark place, away from electrical appliances, solvents, cleaning products, and perfumes. For holohomeopathic agricultural producers, the possibility of making their own remedies, without depending on the purchase of expensive inputs, marks the difference between getting into debt buying agrochemicals with no possibility of return, or increasing their fair profits, getting out of the cloud of consumerism, and producing healthy food.
Dear Dr. Tchavsky,
Our carrot and beet crops developed yellowed, curled leaves and died off very soon. We identified it as Curly top, a viral disease. Our home is Fayette, Kentucky, U.S., 40503. The weather is mild, with hot summers and cool winters. Summer temperatures average in the mid 80s F. Rainfall is around 45 inches a year.
Thank you
Herman
Dr. Radko Tichavsky:
Dear Herman,
The resolution of the Curly Top problem (a Geminiviridae, ssDNA, non-enveloped virus) consists first and foremost in controlling the only vector involved, in this case the beet leafhopper Circulifer tenellus. The virus reservoir is composed of Amaranthus, Plantago, and Chenopodium species. In these plants, the virus remains asymptomatic or shows only mild and temporary symptoms.
In carrot crops, the virus causes forked roots, excessive root hair formation, lignification, bitter taste, and results in yield losses of 40–80%. Mentha essential oil 3 JT is the first remedy to be applied along the crop borders to reduce the feeding capacity of the leafhopper Circulifer tenellus by 60–80%.
Simplified holohomeopathic application table:
| Objective | Mixture & potency | Proportion & dose | Stage | Interval | Synergistic mechanism |
| Geminivirus prevention | Dioscorea villosa 3 JT : Salix 3 JT : Mentha essential oil 5 JT | 40% : 30% : 30% | 100 L/ha | Pre-planting and every 21 days | 3 applications | Induction, inhibition, and repellence |
| Active replication control | Berberis vulgaris (from TM from roots) 4 JT : Ginkgo biloba from TM from leaves) 3 JT : Plantago lanceolata (from Tm from leaves) 6 JT | 50% : 25% : 25% | 50 L/ha | At symptom detection | Every 7–10 days | Replication blocking + confinement |
| Post-viral recovery | Aloe vera (from gel dynamizated in water) 3 JT : Equisetum arvense (from decoction) 3 JT : Rosmarinus officinalis (from TM from leaves) 4 JT | 40% : 40% : 20% | 50 L/ha | Post-harvest or recovery | Every 14 days | Regeneration + strengthening |
| Complete vector barrier | Lavandula angustifolia essential oil 6 JT : Mentha essential oil 6 JT : neem oil 6 JT | 40% : 40% : 20% | 50 L/ha | Vector risk period | Every 10–15 days | Multiple repellence |
| Enhanced systemic antiviral resistance induction | Live bionosode from aerobic ferment of Urtica dioica 3 JT : Salix babylonica (decoction of young branches) 3 JT : chitin 3 JT | 60% : 30% : 10% | 100 L/ha | Critical phenological changes | 2–3 applications | Activation of multiple pathways |
Application of Dioscorea villosa by carrot growth stage
| Carrot stage | Preparation | Potency | Route | Frequency |
| Pre-planting (soil treatment) | Fermented extract dynamizated living bionosod | 2 JT | Soil drench | Once, 7 days before planting |
| 2–4 leaves (preventive) | Dynamizated mother tincture | 3 JT | Foliar and irrigation | Every 14 days |
| Root thickening stage | Dynamizated mother tincture | 4 JT | Foliar only | Every 10–12 days |
| Active infection | Dynamizated decoction | 2 JT | Intensive foliar | Every 5–7 days |
Preparation methods for Dioscorea villosa
Method 1: concentrated alcoholic extract (Mother tincture)
Materials:
– Dried D. villosa rhizomes: 100 g
– Food-grade ethanol 40%: 1000 mL
– Amber glass container
Procedure:
1. Grind rhizomes into coarse powder (2–3 mm)
2. Macerate in 40% ethanol for one week
3. Shake daily
4. Filter
5. Store in darkness at 15–20 °C
- Dynamize to required potencyMethod 2: Aqueous extract for immediate application1. 50 g fresh rhizome + 500 mL non-chlorinated water
2. Simmer gently for 20 minutes
3. Cool, filter, and use within 24 hours - Dynamize to required potency
5. Application: root drench and foliar spray
Method 3: Aerobic ferment (soil application)
– 200 g crushed fresh rhizome
– 2 L water + 20 g molasses
– Ferment for 10 days with daily aeration
– Dynamize to required potency and apply
Greetings Dr. Tichavsky;
We’re starting a vegetable garden but we have lots of voles in the yard. They’re very cute and I don’t want to harm them! Is there a way to keep them from eating whatever we plant? Our garden is in South Carolina, U.S., 29001. It’s a subtropical climate (Cfa), with hot, humid summers and mild winters.
Thank you
Linda
Dr. Radko Tichavsky:
Dear Linda,
The presence of voles on your property is mainly due to two factors: compacted soil and a lack of natural predators such as owls, hawks, snakes, and foxes. One effective way to manage vole populations is to install owl poles (approximately 6 meters / 20 feet high), keep the grass short (<8 cm / 3 inches) around the garden, and reduce dense grass or weed cover.
Although voles can damage crops, they also play an important ecological role in the soil. Therefore, my recommendation is not to eliminate them, but rather to discourage them from visiting your crops. The “defense” against voles consists of applications of cat urine 3 JT and fox urine 3 JT (both dynamized in water), along with applications of essential oils and extracts, including:
- Castor oil 6 JT (an excellent repellent, but it should be applied only on the perimeter fence, outside of edible areas)
- Alcoholic extracts of garlic/onion 3 JT (dynamized in water)
- Alcoholic extract of Capsicum (habanero) 3 JT
- Mentha sp. essential oil 3 JT (dynamized in water)
With these remedies, it is not necessary to spray the entire field. You can apply them along the borders and in a zig-zag pattern in the rest of the area, at approximately 50 liters per hectare.
Below is a basic application scheme:
Week 1 (shock phase, 2 rounds)
- Day 1: Cat urine (3 JT) + garlic/onion (3 JT) applied along the perimeter
- Day 4–5: Fox urine (3 JT) + Mentha (3 JT) applied along the perimeter
Maintenance (every 10–14 days)
- Alternate:
- Week A: cat urine and garlic/onion
- Week B: fox urine and Mentha
- After heavy rain: repeat one full perimeter application.
Apply within a 1-meter (3-ft) band around the protected area, focusing on vulnerable points such as corners, hedges, compost piles, weedy edges, and visible entrances.
Additionally, you can establish plant-based barriers around the crop perimeter using the following species:
| Scientific name | Effect | How to establish the barrier | Adaptation to your climate | Risks / notes |
| Narcissus spp. | Bulbs with alkaloids reduce palatability | Perimeter ring: plant in fall, 10–15 cm between bulbs | Very good | Toxic to pets if bulbs are ingested |
| Euphorbia lathyris | Irritating latex (deterrent) | Only outside the fence, in patches | Good (site-dependent) | Irritating latex; may behave as locally invasive |
| Mentha spp. | Strong repellent aroma | In sunken pots (scented barrier) | Very good | Invasive if planted directly in soil; always contain |
| Allium sativum / A. schoenoprasum | Sulfur compounds, repellent | Between rows or as a continuous border | Very good | Easy, stable; requires sun |
| Tulbaghia violacea | Constant garlic-like odor | Continuous low hedge (20–30 cm spacing) | Excellent | Very good perennial option in warm climates |
| Salvia rosmarinus | Repellent volatile terpenes; light physical barrier | Perimeter low hedge (40–60 cm spacing) | Very good with good drainage | Avoid waterlogged soils; prune to maintain density |
| Ruta graveolens | Strong, deterrent odor | Outer border in patches | Good | Can cause photodermatitis (use gloves; avoid sun after handling) |
| Artemisia spp. | Bitter, terpene-rich repellent aroma | Outer border in patches | Fair–good | Some species dislike humidity; test in your microclimate |
| Lavandula spp. | Terpene-rich repellent aroma | Borders in very well-drained soils | Fair (humidity) | Choose humidity-tolerant varieties; avoid wet clay soils |
Hello Dr. Tichavsky,
Our blueberry bushes are not doing very well. The leaves are yellowing and look brown on the edges. It’s been difficult understand how often to water them. Our garden is in Berkshire, UK (mailing code RG1). The climate is temperate maritime with mild winters and warm, short summers (70°F+ highs in July).
Thank you
Charlotte
Dr. Radko Tichavsky:
Dear Charlotte
Blueberries are pine-forest plants and require acidic soil (pH 4.0–5.2). In Berkshire, many soils are calcareous/alkaline, and the irrigation water may also have a high pH. Typical symptoms of inadequate pH are interveinal chlorosis (green veins with yellow tissue that later turns brown).
You can apply shredded pine bark as mulch; this helps correct overly alkaline pH and provides greater comfort for your plants. Regarding irrigation, excess water causes root suffocation. Since your city is relatively close to the sea (about 100 km), it is important to maintain moderate moisture to avoid alternating between waterlogged and dry soil.
In practice, reduce irrigation and avoid watering by fixed dates; instead, check soil moisture with a finger. Pay particular attention to irrigation on windy days (need more irrigation).
| Season | Approximate frequency | Typical amount | Adjustment cue |
| Spring | 2–3 times per week if there is no rain | 5–10 L per plant | New growth should be green and vigorous |
| Summer | Every 2–3 days during heat waves (>25 °C) | 10–15 L per plant | If leaves droop at midday and do not recover, increase watering |
| Fall | 1–2 times per week | 5–8 L per plant | Gradually reduce |
| Winter | Only during prolonged dry periods | 2–4 L per plant | Avoid waterlogging |
Recommended homeopathic applications are Ferrum phosphoricum 6 CH (stimulates iron assimilation in calcareous soils), Natrum muriaticum 30 CH, especially during hot periods, and Dulcamara 6 CH to prevent outbreaks of pathogenic fungi after rainfall. As a constitutional remedy, use a cold hydrolate of Pinus sylvestris needles. The cold hydrolate is prepared by placing 500 g of pine needles in 5 L of water for 7 days, then dynamizing to 3 JT and using it as irrigation water every two to three weeks.
Dear Dr. Tichavsky,
This summer our spinach crop had tiny leaves which had a bitter taste. We’d like to plant again next summer but are not sure what we did wrong? Can you suggest anything? We live in Dothan Alabama 36305 (U.S.). The climate is humid subtropical, with mild winters, hot summers, and considerable rainfall.
Thank you
Sheila
Dr. Radko Tichavsky:
Dear Sheila,
Planting spinach in mid-summer was probably the main mistake. Spinach is very sensitive to heat, so it is essential to choose the right planting window and select varieties that are adapted to the different conditions throughout the year.
Viable planting windows for Dothan
| Season | Planting dates | Recommended varieties | Special considerations |
| Early spring | Feb 15 – Mar 10 (direct sowing) | Bloomsdale Long Standing, Tyee, Space | Use frost cloth if late frosts occur |
| Fall (best option) | Aug 15 – Sep 15 (direct sowing) | Melody, Regiment, Avon | Better germination than spring, less bitterness |
| Winter (with protection) | Oct 1 – Nov 15 (tunnels or hot beds) | Giant Winter, Winter Bloomsdale | Protect from occasional frosts |
Soil temperature should be between 4–21 °C for optimal germination and growth.
If you want green leaves during peak summer (Jun–Aug), plant these alternatives:
| Plant | Similar flavor | Heat tolerance | Days to harvest |
| Malabar spinach (Basella alba) | Mild, not bitter | Excellent (tropical) | 50–60 days |
| New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia sp.) | Slightly more earthy | Very good | 40–50 days |
| Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) | Similar, stronger stems | Good | 45–55 days |
| Brassica carinata (Ethiopian mustard) | Spicy, nutritious | Excellent | 30–40 days |
Regarding the homeopathic remedies used for priming (applications on seeds and plants to increase spinach resistance to heat), we use eggshells 3 JT. Dry the shells in the sun or in a low oven (100–120 °C, 10–15 minutes) to make them more reactive, then grind them and place them in a small amount of apple cider vinegar for 24 hours.
Separate the liquid and dynamize it in water to 3 JT. Alternate these applications with Equisetum arvense (prepared as a decoction of the plant) dynamized to 3 JT, and Salix babylonica (prepared from a decoction of young branches) dynamized to 3 JT.
These holohomeopathic remedies reduce thermal stress and prevent the formation of phenols, which are one of the causes of bitter flavor. The treatment should be applied early in the morning every 3–4 days. In addition, you may add Ascophyllum nodosum (prepared from a decoction of the alga) dynamized to 2 JT to each treatment as a co-adjuvant and osmoprotectant.
Do not use nitrogen fertilization on spinach, as excess nitrogen increases oxalates, which are the second main cause of excessive bitterness in the leaves. With this approach, you can achieve green, firm leaves with much less bitterness even during periods of intense heat.
Online Course: Basic Agricultural Holohomeopathy
For farmers, gardeners, homeopaths, and all people who are interested in understanding holohomeopacthic intervention in real conditions.
In direct interaction with Dr. Radko Tichavsky, structured into 15 lessons of 2 hours each (once per week.). Sessions are live and participatory, and include Q&A, case discussions, and practical guidance. Starts on the first Wednesday of February (February 4, 2026), with one session per week (in English).
A certificate of participation is awarded upon completion.
Information, detailed program and registration: [email protected]
BOOKS ON HOLOHOMEOPATHY
Many readers asked about Dr. Radko Tichavsky’s books. Below is a list and a photo of them. They are available in Spanish, Italian and Portuguese. For ordering or information: [email protected]
Books by Dr. Radko Tichavsky
These books have been published in Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese
“Manual of Agrohomeopathy” (2007), “Homeopathy for Plants” (2009), and the
“Homeopathy for Plants” (2009): A book dedicated to the application of homeopathy for plant care.
“Organon of Holohomeopathy” (2018). This book covers homeopathic interventions in agriculture from a holistic view, introducing the novel concept of metabolic similarity among different species.
“Foundations of Agrohomeopathy” (2018): This title is also available in Italian under the name Fondamenti di agro-omeopatia.
Holohomeopathy Manual for Poultry (2018): A specific manual addressing the application of holohomeopathy in poultry farming.
“Advanced Agrohomeopathy” (2021): A more recent publication exploring advanced techniques and concepts in the field.
